直島・小豆島の旅2023(後) Trip to Shodoshima

地元情報 Local Info.

直島・小豆島の旅2023(前) Trip to Naoshima


The next morning. I wandered until the ship sailed. I feel Hommura is more interesting than Miyanoura for strolls during the day, but Miyanoura is also nice in the morning and evening.


The ship sails in the morning sun. The destination is Uno Port, Okayama Prefecture.



Arrive at Uno. As JR Uno Station can be reached in a short walk, so it’s easy to transfer from the boat to the train. The station building is also an artwork.

JR Uno Station


宇野のチヌ / 宇野のコチヌ

And speaking of artworks in Uno, this is “Chinu” – the black sea bream. It is made of garbage picked up on the coast and lake shores around Uno.

Chinu & Kochinu of Uno


When I was about to transfer to the next ship, I almost got caught in a trap. My next destination was Shodoshima island. So, which pier should I go to? Yes, there are two lines from Uno Port, one to Naoshima and the other to Teshima/Shodoshima. The boarding pier differs depending on the type of ship also, not only on the destination. Since a ferry is a large ship that can carry a vehicle, and a small passenger boat and high-speed boat are small ships, the structure of the pier to get on and off is different. If you are going on an island trip, be sure to check in advance not only the departure time and destination but also the type of boat and boarding pier.


Arrived at Shodoshima and walked about 30 minutes from Tonosho Port to Shodoshima Anzen Rent-A-Car near Angel Road. Along the way, I took a short detour through the “maze town”. It’s not large, and traditional houses are few, but it was a maze with narrow and winding alleys, and can’t see the distance at all.


I rented a scooter, not a car at the rental car shop. If you speak Japanese, have experience driving a scooter, and Japanese or international driver’s license, you can rent it. A rental scooter is easy and comfortable on Shodoshima in nice weather for solo tourists. I went to “Nakabuan” for Shodoshima Somen noodles by the scooter. I enjoyed the meal, factory tour, and experience to separate sticky noodles with chopsticks.

小豆島安全レンタカー Shodoshima Anzen Rent-A-Car


At first, I ate the somen noodles. It has a strong chewy texture and so nice.


Next, the factory tour. The guide explains the process to make somen. We don’t enter the actual manufacturing line. What I learned was that gluten was amazing! Though we usually eat somen in summer, it is made in winter. So, their making line was very busy in February when I visited, he said.


Finally, we experienced making the noodles. We separate and stretch these sticky noodles that come out of the machine.


Done. Though there is no picture of the work in progress, it is fun and will get you excited.

なかぶ庵 Nakabuan

Nakabuan – Getting to Know Summer’s Perfect Noodle | Stouchi Finder


My next destination was Yamaroku Soy Sauce. A brewery that makes soy sauce traditionally in wooden barrels has become rare now, but it is more difficult to pass down barrel-making techniques than to inherit the soy sauce breweries. Yamaroku Soy Sauce inherits the barrel-making technique from its predecessor and started to collaborate with breweries all over Japan, not only for soy sauce. I saw just freshly made barrels or barrels in production there.


Tourists can visit the 150-year-old soy sauce brewery all year round without reservation. Great aroma of moromi, the origin of soy sauce. You can feel that authentic soy sauce is made here. If you are interested in traditional foods or fermented foods, must visit.

ヤマロク醤油 Yamaroku Soy Sauce

さらに向かいましたのは、Sen Guesthouse。松山にあった人気ゲストハウスが数年前に小豆島に引っ越してきました。特徴的なのはそのロケーション。路線バスは1日4本だけ。あとは車、バイク、自転車で来るか、二十四の瞳映画村行きまで渡し船(運行日注意)に乗って、そこから歩くという裏技でアクセスできます。もちろん近くに飲食店やコンビニもありません。

I headed further to Sen Guesthouse. A popular guesthouse in Matsuyama moved to Shodoshima a few years ago. Its location is unique. The local bus runs only 4 times a day. Otherwise, guests can get there by taxi, motorcycle, bicycle, or take a ferryboat to Twenty-Four Eyes Movie Studio (not runs every day) and walk from there. Of course, there are no restaurants or convenience stores nearby.

そうやって来たSen Guesthouse正面の(ほぼ)プライベートビーチからの風景がこちら。この内海(うちのみ)湾をはさんで対岸にオリーブ公園が見えます。向こう側に交通量も建物も多い「日常」が見える分、こちら側の非日常感を味わえます。

Here is the view from the almost private beach at high tide in front of Sen Guesthouse. Can see Olive Park on the other side of Uchinomi Bay. When we see daily life with a lot of traffic and buildings on the other side, we can enjoy the extraordinary feeling of this side.

Sen Guesthouse


Let’s drop in at the most popular tourist spot, Olive Park. Everyone was flying on their magic broomsticks there.

道の駅 小豆島オリーブ公園 Shodoshima Olive Park


The final destination was the Mito Peninsula but there was no specific destination there. Just wanted to ride a scooter there because a guest of Wakabaya recommended touring the Mito Peninsula by scooter. Although Shodoshima is an island, it has a population of about 27,000. There is a lot of traffic along highway 436 from Tonosho in the southwest of the island to Yasuda in the southeast (near Nakabuan). Mito Peninsula sticks out to the south as if it avoids the busy highway. You can leisurely run along the coast. As some sections of the way in the mountains are narrow, not recommended to drive a car, but a motorcycle or scooter rider will enjoy the winding roads.


The Jizozaki lighthouse (no entry). There is an observatory and the sunset seems to be beautiful.


Shodoshima Mito Peninsula Kagawa – YouTube



Some outdoor works from the Setouchi Triennale are still on display on the Mito Peninsula. One of them, the Human Home Hermit Crab is huge and real. No fences or signs. He just shoulders an abandoned house.

Human Home Hermit Crab


“Go your home.” He said to me, maybe. OK, I go back home, to Takamatsu. My trip to Naoshima and Shodoshima was over.